The Heritage Town of Taal: Learning History Through Architecture

The Heritage City of Vigan in Ilocos Sur province situated in the northern tip of the Philippines is touted by many as the best example of a Spanish colonial town in Asia. They say that Vigan exemplifies the town planning specified in King Philip II’s Law of the Indies. Many tourists—local and foreign alike—travel several hours just to see the city’s unique architectural design and townscape. But history and heritage buffs need not endure dragging land travel just to marvel at Spanish-era edifices.

Situated just 2 to 3 hours south of Manila is the town of Taal in the province of Batangas—an emerging tourist destination for those wishing to learn about the history of the Philippines during the Spanish colonial period. In Taal, history is told not through voluminous tomes but through surviving structures reminiscent of the town’s olden days. As Heritage conservation architect Manuel Noche noted, “The history and culture of the Philippines are reflected in its architectural heritage, in the dwellings of its various peoples, in churches and mosques, and in the buildings that have risen in response to the demands of progress and the aspirations of the people.”

Taal is a treasure trove of artifacts, mostly heritage buildings, that transports tourists to a bygone era. While some may say that heritage buildings in Taal are purely Western, the Spaniards had to adapt European architectural style to suit the tropical climate of the Philippines allowing Filipino design elements to creep into these Spanish colonial structures.

But more than the architectural marvels, the urban planning of Taal speaks volumes about the power relations in play during the Spanish times. The unique urban layout made Taal easy to navigate by foot though others may choose to ride a tricycle for added convenience. The most imposing edifice in the town is the Basilica de San Martin de Tours. Locals say that this structure made of adobe is the biggest Catholic church not only in the Philippines but also in Asia. The basilica stands on a hill spanning half a hectare and dwarfs the rest of the structures in the town. Both the location and size of the church highlight the supremacy and prominence of the Catholic Church as well as its heavy influence on Philippine affairs including civil or political matters during the Spanish colonial period. Standing at the foot of the church are government centers like the municipal hall also known as Casa Real, which seem like a speck when compared to the grandiose basilica—an indication of the political and economic powers that church possesses. Nearby establishments also includes the public market, a school and spaces for leisure and recreation.

Architecture or heritage conservation enthusiasts can easily spend days just inspecting the rows of bahay na batos (stone houses) found a few meters from the church. It has been said that a house’s proximity to the plaza or the church implies its owners’ affluence or social standing. Ancestral houses of prominent families and the ilustrados or the elite class surrounds the church, that is, the town center; while those belonging to the lower tier of society live in the outskirts of the town but still within or “under the peal of the church bells.”

The heritage houses or Taal are more than just mere façades. These are well-preserved structures that house antique artifacts that illustrate the Filipino way of living during the colonial period. It is also worth mentioning that these houses and the town itself are not mere museum pieces up for display. These are homes with real people living in them. Others even served as homes of heroes and patriots who fought for Philippine Independence. Today, homeowners and locals are more than willing to welcome tourists to their abodes—sometimes free or for a fee—and share stories about the houses and their original owners. Most of the heritage houses are open to the public although operating hours varies from house to house. Home stays or private functions like luncheons may also be arranged.

A close inspection of the heritage houses may also serve as a crash course not only in Philippine architecture but also in Filipino customs, ritual and beliefs related to building houses. Climbing the stairs of these houses wouldn’t be complete without muttering oro, plata and mata. Folk belief dictates that oro, plata, mata—guidelines governing the number of steps in one’s stairs—be followed to ensure luck and prosperity. “The perfect last step should be oro (gold). Ending up plata (silver) is not too bad either but, understandably, do not ever end up with mata (death),” architect Ernesto Zarate noted in his book Oro, Plata, Mata: Filipino Building Beliefs.

The bahay na bato interior design is also a fascinating subject. Rooms in the entresuelo or the mezzanine are usually reserved for the use of extended family members especially unmarried aunts or uncles. Some also use the entresuelo as a receiving area for guests before allowing them to the main house. And in some cases, the kitchen is separated from the rest of house because it is considered as a fire hazard. Moreover, the prayer room is also an important part of the house and usually houses antique religious images considered as family heirlooms.

In the town’s periphery stands a shrine dedicated to the Our Lady of Caysasay, one of the oldest images of the Virgin Mary in the Philippines venerated by thousands of pilgrims. Beside the shrine is a set of 125 granite steps named San Lorenzo Luis Steps, which leads to the town center. Tourists and pilgrims also troop to the nearby Sta. Lucia Well. Locals say that Our Lady of Caysaysay appeared before two women in the said area. The place is now considered as a sacred site while the water from the well is believed to be miraculous.

A tour in the heritage town of Taal can be perfectly capped off with a trip to the Taal Public Market, a one-stop shop for Taal products and specialities including empanada, longganisa, panutsa, suman, tapa, tamales, tawilis and tulingan. Taal crafts like Barong Tagalog, balisong and other native products may also be purchased or ordered from the public market right at the town center. Restaurants are also found within the vicinity of the market.

Efforts to restore and conserve the built heritage of Taal continue up to this day. Taal homeowners formed a non-governmental organization in 2008 called the Taal Active Alliance Legion (TAAL) which spearheads initiatives to preserve, protect and promote the town’s culture and heritage. The group also worked with the town council to enact a preservation ordinance that seeks to protect the old structures in the area. While the town is now a National Historical Landmark as declared by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines as early as 1987, plans to nominate Taal as a UNESCO World Heritage Site are also underway.